This blog is published together with 8 chapters of practical advice.
Following a little pressure (and advice) from friends and family, I decided to publish this blog as an e-book. In addition to the blog and photographs, I have included 8 chapters of practical advice, which I hope will help potential (independant) travellers on the Trans Siberian Railway to realise their dream. There is advice about planning and booking the trip, as well as travel tips based on our experiences of travelling along the World's longest railway line, which in our case was part of our journey from France to Shanghai overland via rail.
The e-book is available from Amazon.com for $3.61 US through the following link:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3GNRE4
You can sample before downloading, and I would appreciate any comments you may wish to make.
I hope you find it interesting
Good luck
John Oliver-Collins
Monday, 3 June 2013
Thursday, 20 October 2011
21 October. Australia
Gold Coast airport (7am!)
We have arrived in Australia - and the bags arrived with us - always a pleasant surprise. Through the immigration auto entry machine, no humans! I have a chipped Australian passport. The machine spat out a label saying "Welcome home John Oliver Collins". Big brother is watching ....... Fastracked through customs and quarantine, always a problem in Australia, but not this time. Gold Coast is a tiny airport, and all our visas etc. are in our UK passports, so they didn't see the Mongolia stamps etc. otherwise we might still be in the queue!
So now we have to wait in the Gold Coast airport 4 hours for our connecting flight to Sydney. Lots of Japanese off our flight and off a flight from Tokyo, plus Oz youth in shorts singlets and plastic thongs (flip flops), being very loud and full of life, high fiving and full of beer at 6.30 in the morning! Ahh being young ..... Beer and bonhomie.
We have yet to get to Sydney, take the subway to town, pick up the car, hope it starts ..... and 4 hour drive to the bush. Oh, forgot the obligatory Malaysian chilli noodle soup (called laksa ) for Merryn at her favourite Thai near the flat! It has red chilli oil floating on the surface!!
Update late in the day .....
Flight to Sydney unremarkable.
Train to the city - expensive but convenient. In fact the most expensive subway we have been on.
Reconnected the battery, the car started first time (what a lovely old Toyota). Had the soup - don't know how she does it !!
Pleasant trip out to the bush (Molong).
We have arrived in Australia - and the bags arrived with us - always a pleasant surprise. Through the immigration auto entry machine, no humans! I have a chipped Australian passport. The machine spat out a label saying "Welcome home John Oliver Collins". Big brother is watching ....... Fastracked through customs and quarantine, always a problem in Australia, but not this time. Gold Coast is a tiny airport, and all our visas etc. are in our UK passports, so they didn't see the Mongolia stamps etc. otherwise we might still be in the queue!
Our plane from Japan at the tropical Gold Coast airport
So now we have to wait in the Gold Coast airport 4 hours for our connecting flight to Sydney. Lots of Japanese off our flight and off a flight from Tokyo, plus Oz youth in shorts singlets and plastic thongs (flip flops), being very loud and full of life, high fiving and full of beer at 6.30 in the morning! Ahh being young ..... Beer and bonhomie.
We have yet to get to Sydney, take the subway to town, pick up the car, hope it starts ..... and 4 hour drive to the bush. Oh, forgot the obligatory Malaysian chilli noodle soup (called laksa ) for Merryn at her favourite Thai near the flat! It has red chilli oil floating on the surface!!
Update late in the day .....
Flight to Sydney unremarkable.
Train to the city - expensive but convenient. In fact the most expensive subway we have been on.
Reconnected the battery, the car started first time (what a lovely old Toyota). Had the soup - don't know how she does it !!
Pleasant trip out to the bush (Molong).
20 October. Leaving Japan.
Tonight (wednesday 19th) we pack for the plane. Bit of a shock really after trains and boats which don't impose a weight limit. We've eaten all the dried food we started out with and still no room and seems to weigh a ton!
Had a really lovely meal tonight, typical Kyoto, fish and lots of other stuff in small lacquer bowls, quite superb. In fact second best we have had, after Peking Duck.
Third best was perhaps the food in the Yunnan restaurant in the alley, also in Beijing.
Visited great bonsai nursery yesterday, bought a couple of pots, which I suppose adds a little weight, oh such beautiful trees, but no way!! Then to a Shingon Buddhist temple, near the nursery, beautiful buildings and gardens.
Today we went to one of the most famous Zen Buddhist temples in the world. The RyoanJi Temple which houses the world heritage zen dry stone garden. I have wanted to visit this for many years, one of the reasons for being in Kyoto. The stone garden was superb, designed hundreds of years ago, within a courtyard it is 15 rocks within 5 "islands" within a sea of raked white gravel. No-one is sure about the designers intention, but it was always a very spiritual place, and is still considered to be so.
The gardens of the temple were again superb, moss gardens and maples etc. all set on the edge of the hills around the city.
Kyoto was not firebombed in ww2 like Tokyo and rest, so escaped relatively intact and all the temples etc. have come through recent history intact. Arguments about the rights and wrongs of the war aside, this is not the forum, we can just be grateful that some beauty survived the insanity.
Finish packing tonight and at the airport tomorrow night for flight to Oz. Last train trip tomorrow, on a fast train from here to the airport in Osaka. I will miss the trains.
So the rail trip is basically over, now it's the fast way to Sydney.
Had another pleasant day in the city, bus out to the Ginkakuji Temple on the outskirts. Again lovely gardens. Bit more commercial than yesterday, so very pleased we went to RyoanJi.
We tis leaving day today, and I am filing this from the airport waiting for plane to Oz. The airline we are on is very strict with baggage weight, and we were half a kilo under ...... Having quiet beer in bar with baseball on tv. Baseball very big in this country. Last train trip to the airport very efficient, as expected.
One last thought about Kyoto, All through the city, many of the houses had small red fire buckets by the front door. maybe this is a local regulation, we never found out. But fascinating, although not sure how effective the buckets would be?
I hope you have enjoyed reading these little scribblings, I have enjoyed putting my thoughts in order, and reliving some of the pleasures - and pains - of the last little while.
Highlights? Come to mind immediately- Moscow metro driver who opened his cabin door and waved with a great big smile, Chinese carriage attendant on Trans Siberian who wanted to sell us beer, and gave us hot water from his private stash when the fire went out, lovely old Japanese man on the ferry from China who helped us with the Osaka subway, and bowed to me as the train left. There are many more, bit it's the people who come to mind first, they make the trip, the kindnesses and
the fun. On that note I will have another beer and remember the fun.
Thanks for coming along with us. Cheers from us both.
Had a really lovely meal tonight, typical Kyoto, fish and lots of other stuff in small lacquer bowls, quite superb. In fact second best we have had, after Peking Duck.
Third best was perhaps the food in the Yunnan restaurant in the alley, also in Beijing.
Eating this was only part of the enjoyment
Visited great bonsai nursery yesterday, bought a couple of pots, which I suppose adds a little weight, oh such beautiful trees, but no way!! Then to a Shingon Buddhist temple, near the nursery, beautiful buildings and gardens.
I think the best tree in the nursery
Part of the nursery selection
Today we went to one of the most famous Zen Buddhist temples in the world. The RyoanJi Temple which houses the world heritage zen dry stone garden. I have wanted to visit this for many years, one of the reasons for being in Kyoto. The stone garden was superb, designed hundreds of years ago, within a courtyard it is 15 rocks within 5 "islands" within a sea of raked white gravel. No-one is sure about the designers intention, but it was always a very spiritual place, and is still considered to be so.
Two young girls in contemplation beside the zen garden
The gardens of the temple were again superb, moss gardens and maples etc. all set on the edge of the hills around the city.
RyoanJi Temple gardens
Kyoto was not firebombed in ww2 like Tokyo and rest, so escaped relatively intact and all the temples etc. have come through recent history intact. Arguments about the rights and wrongs of the war aside, this is not the forum, we can just be grateful that some beauty survived the insanity.
Finish packing tonight and at the airport tomorrow night for flight to Oz. Last train trip tomorrow, on a fast train from here to the airport in Osaka. I will miss the trains.
Our last train. Kyoto to Osaka airport.
So the rail trip is basically over, now it's the fast way to Sydney.
Had another pleasant day in the city, bus out to the Ginkakuji Temple on the outskirts. Again lovely gardens. Bit more commercial than yesterday, so very pleased we went to RyoanJi.
The Ginkakuji Temple gardens
We tis leaving day today, and I am filing this from the airport waiting for plane to Oz. The airline we are on is very strict with baggage weight, and we were half a kilo under ...... Having quiet beer in bar with baseball on tv. Baseball very big in this country. Last train trip to the airport very efficient, as expected.
One last thought about Kyoto, All through the city, many of the houses had small red fire buckets by the front door. maybe this is a local regulation, we never found out. But fascinating, although not sure how effective the buckets would be?
I hope you have enjoyed reading these little scribblings, I have enjoyed putting my thoughts in order, and reliving some of the pleasures - and pains - of the last little while.
Highlights? Come to mind immediately- Moscow metro driver who opened his cabin door and waved with a great big smile, Chinese carriage attendant on Trans Siberian who wanted to sell us beer, and gave us hot water from his private stash when the fire went out, lovely old Japanese man on the ferry from China who helped us with the Osaka subway, and bowed to me as the train left. There are many more, bit it's the people who come to mind first, they make the trip, the kindnesses and
the fun. On that note I will have another beer and remember the fun.
Thanks for coming along with us. Cheers from us both.
Monday, 17 October 2011
17 October. Arrive Kyoto
We arrived in Osaka on time.
After a health check were allowed to disembark. For the health check we had to stand in line, according to numbered cards we received when boarding in China, and we then had our temperature taken. If we had a temp higher than 35 we would not be allowed to leave the boat, so presumably we would have to go back to China? Seemed too difficult to ask.
After the usual formalities took a bus to the subway station.
On the boat we had met a charming elderly Japanese man, who spoke some english, and was keen to help about the menu. Anyway he joined us on the bus to the subway, and helped with tickets etc. Then also took the same train to where we had to change, so stodd and indicated the station when we arrived. We got out with a Canadian guy who was going our way, and the man bowed and waved from the train, which I returned.
Got the next subway to the mainline station and bought tickets for the bullet train to Kyoto, the train was an express to Tokyo, first stop Kyoto. We arrived in 15 minutes!
Out of the station and to the hotel, a traditional ryokan.
Although traditional, the rooms are equipped with "washlets". A heated loo seat and electric built in bidet which squirts warm water in various combinations at various orifices with the push of a button! Quite exciting!!
Being a traditional ryokan, the internet is a bit primitive, all wired windows (in Japanese), oh where is our helpful old man now???
So being Apple wifi users we must go in search of a wifi coffee shop. If we don't find one no-one will read this so you will be non the wiser.
Our ferry was a bit smarter than this
After a health check were allowed to disembark. For the health check we had to stand in line, according to numbered cards we received when boarding in China, and we then had our temperature taken. If we had a temp higher than 35 we would not be allowed to leave the boat, so presumably we would have to go back to China? Seemed too difficult to ask.
The ferry terminal
After the usual formalities took a bus to the subway station.
On the boat we had met a charming elderly Japanese man, who spoke some english, and was keen to help about the menu. Anyway he joined us on the bus to the subway, and helped with tickets etc. Then also took the same train to where we had to change, so stodd and indicated the station when we arrived. We got out with a Canadian guy who was going our way, and the man bowed and waved from the train, which I returned.
Got the next subway to the mainline station and bought tickets for the bullet train to Kyoto, the train was an express to Tokyo, first stop Kyoto. We arrived in 15 minutes!
Out of the station and to the hotel, a traditional ryokan.
The Ryokan courtyard garden
The traditional rooms - tatami mats and bedrolls
Although traditional, the rooms are equipped with "washlets". A heated loo seat and electric built in bidet which squirts warm water in various combinations at various orifices with the push of a button! Quite exciting!!
The controller - what combinations!
Being a traditional ryokan, the internet is a bit primitive, all wired windows (in Japanese), oh where is our helpful old man now???
So being Apple wifi users we must go in search of a wifi coffee shop. If we don't find one no-one will read this so you will be non the wiser.
17 October - Ferry ride to Japan
A life on the ocean wave! Eventually ......... First we had to navigate the Huang Po River, then the Yangtzi Delta. River traffic through Shanghai is relentless, day and night.
Just dropped the last pilot boat. Big place Shanghai. Took us about 2 hours to get into the Yangtzi River, then another 2 hours to get to the mouth of the river.
Dinner tonight, a bowl of rice and a small dish of green beans plus dish of bean sprouts fried with tofu. Merryn had some chicken as well. Plus we had light beer, so pleasant and light. A few other choices, but they seemed the most appropriate for us.
Interesting that in all the places we have eaten (except the hotel in Shanghai) there was no concession to western eating, you used chopsticks or your fingers. Luckily we are both skilled to grain of rice standard. Found a triffic little shop in Shanghai, only sold chopsticks, including some very beautiful and expensive ebony or ivory topped with gold or silver. I chose very simple polished steel with a green inlay, to match my simple yet hedonistic lifestyle(!)
That little shop was one of the very few "local" shops around. We have never seen so many Gucci - Rolex - Tiffany etc. stores anywhere. They were in every shopping mall, and there was a mall on every corner it seemed in Shanghai. Lotsa money town, at least for some people. Mao must be spinning away at great speed somewhere!
Last night after our meal in the old town we walked down the Bund again. The lights just magnificent on the old buildings and on the skyscrapers across the river in Pudong, the financial centre. Most of Shanghai seemed to be strolling along with us. Very pleasant. Even the brides being photographed on the bridge at the mouth of the Suzhou Creek seemed more relaxed than we have seen.
Seems it's a tradition, and good luck, to have your wedding photographs taken on the old iron bridge at the end of the Bund (just outside our hotel). The bridge is a symbol of the city . There can be 3 or 4 at a time, and even in the rain.
At the moment the ferry is rolling about a bit, and we have a karaoke bar 2 floors down, but because this a smallish ship, the sound carries all the way up to the "special cabins". We have a "special" twin bed cabin with our own bathroom and door to the deck. There are only 8 such cabins on board - very posh! First class are 4 berth cabins with bunks and share the bathroom with the rest of the cabins. Don't ask about second class!
But back to the karaoke, a Japanese invention I recall. But why is it that only the tone deaf take part?
Been out on deck. It's great to see so many stars again. We also seem to be surrounded by ships all lit up and heading towards Shanghai.
Now to bed to the strains of some tortured Sinatra classic!
This morning, Sunday, woke to blue sea and sky. Not a ship in sight. We had the last of our coffee for breakfast, and threw away the tin. Tin been with us for many years, Since London in fact, coffee from Monaco last month. Yes been on the road for nearly a month..... Tin had to go cos we need the space, and twas getting a bit bent. We keep the stockings though in case we need to make coffee on the road in Oz.
Why the stockings? Travellers Tip Put coffee in stocking, put in hot water, wait, remove stocking and voila - fresh proper coffee.
Just had lunch (rice, tofu, steamed greens, fried stuffed tofu, light fishy soup and beer - very nice.
It's now 24 hours since leaving the dock in Shanghai, and we have just sighted the outer islands of Japan. Another 18 hours to reach Osaka, but from now on we will be insight of the coast as we enter the Inland Sea. Very smooth crossing - so far.
Dinner is over, another meal of rice, meat with oyster sauce and tofu in a rich sauce. Plus beer.
Food aside, I really can see the allure of the sea, maybe not cruising, but travelling by sea. There is nothing to do except read or watch the sea and sky and think or dream. In 2 days I have finished a collection of Ernest Hemingway which I started a while ago. Not having read him for some 40 odd years, I still found his style deceptively simple, but it flew along with the wind and the sea. Almost became poetical then, must be what the sea does for you?
When not immersed in Mr. H. watched flying fishes, and flocks of birds diving into shoals of fish boiling up the surface of the water, presumably being chased by something bigger below them - life can be a bit of a shit at times!
Tonight watched the lights of towns passing surprisingly closely as we make our way up the inland sea.
Tomorrow morning we dock in Osaka, then we make our way across the city to catch a train to Kyoto.
Maybe travelling by container ship or freighter is really the go. Equates well with train travel. Nice way to end the trip.
Traffic on the Huang Po River heading upstream through the smog.
Moving out from the dock into the river traffic
Making our way down the Huang Po River
Entering the Yangtzi River
Just dropped the last pilot boat. Big place Shanghai. Took us about 2 hours to get into the Yangtzi River, then another 2 hours to get to the mouth of the river.
Finally - a life on the ocean wave
Dinner tonight, a bowl of rice and a small dish of green beans plus dish of bean sprouts fried with tofu. Merryn had some chicken as well. Plus we had light beer, so pleasant and light. A few other choices, but they seemed the most appropriate for us.
Interesting that in all the places we have eaten (except the hotel in Shanghai) there was no concession to western eating, you used chopsticks or your fingers. Luckily we are both skilled to grain of rice standard. Found a triffic little shop in Shanghai, only sold chopsticks, including some very beautiful and expensive ebony or ivory topped with gold or silver. I chose very simple polished steel with a green inlay, to match my simple yet hedonistic lifestyle(!)
That little shop was one of the very few "local" shops around. We have never seen so many Gucci - Rolex - Tiffany etc. stores anywhere. They were in every shopping mall, and there was a mall on every corner it seemed in Shanghai. Lotsa money town, at least for some people. Mao must be spinning away at great speed somewhere!
Last night after our meal in the old town we walked down the Bund again. The lights just magnificent on the old buildings and on the skyscrapers across the river in Pudong, the financial centre. Most of Shanghai seemed to be strolling along with us. Very pleasant. Even the brides being photographed on the bridge at the mouth of the Suzhou Creek seemed more relaxed than we have seen.
Seems it's a tradition, and good luck, to have your wedding photographs taken on the old iron bridge at the end of the Bund (just outside our hotel). The bridge is a symbol of the city . There can be 3 or 4 at a time, and even in the rain.
At the moment the ferry is rolling about a bit, and we have a karaoke bar 2 floors down, but because this a smallish ship, the sound carries all the way up to the "special cabins". We have a "special" twin bed cabin with our own bathroom and door to the deck. There are only 8 such cabins on board - very posh! First class are 4 berth cabins with bunks and share the bathroom with the rest of the cabins. Don't ask about second class!
But back to the karaoke, a Japanese invention I recall. But why is it that only the tone deaf take part?
Been out on deck. It's great to see so many stars again. We also seem to be surrounded by ships all lit up and heading towards Shanghai.
Sunset as we enter the East China Sea
Now to bed to the strains of some tortured Sinatra classic!
This morning, Sunday, woke to blue sea and sky. Not a ship in sight. We had the last of our coffee for breakfast, and threw away the tin. Tin been with us for many years, Since London in fact, coffee from Monaco last month. Yes been on the road for nearly a month..... Tin had to go cos we need the space, and twas getting a bit bent. We keep the stockings though in case we need to make coffee on the road in Oz.
Why the stockings? Travellers Tip Put coffee in stocking, put in hot water, wait, remove stocking and voila - fresh proper coffee.
Just had lunch (rice, tofu, steamed greens, fried stuffed tofu, light fishy soup and beer - very nice.
It's now 24 hours since leaving the dock in Shanghai, and we have just sighted the outer islands of Japan. Another 18 hours to reach Osaka, but from now on we will be insight of the coast as we enter the Inland Sea. Very smooth crossing - so far.
Outer islands of Japan
Dinner is over, another meal of rice, meat with oyster sauce and tofu in a rich sauce. Plus beer.
Food aside, I really can see the allure of the sea, maybe not cruising, but travelling by sea. There is nothing to do except read or watch the sea and sky and think or dream. In 2 days I have finished a collection of Ernest Hemingway which I started a while ago. Not having read him for some 40 odd years, I still found his style deceptively simple, but it flew along with the wind and the sea. Almost became poetical then, must be what the sea does for you?
When not immersed in Mr. H. watched flying fishes, and flocks of birds diving into shoals of fish boiling up the surface of the water, presumably being chased by something bigger below them - life can be a bit of a shit at times!
Tonight watched the lights of towns passing surprisingly closely as we make our way up the inland sea.
Realised that one of the "towns" is Hiroshima! Must go there one day. I had a distant uncle (Australian) who was one of the first to fly into the city after the bomb. Perhaps not surprisingly he had battles with cancer - which he eventually lost.
Was this Hiroshima?
Under a bridge close to Osaka
Tomorrow morning we dock in Osaka, then we make our way across the city to catch a train to Kyoto.
Maybe travelling by container ship or freighter is really the go. Equates well with train travel. Nice way to end the trip.
Friday, 14 October 2011
15 October Shanghai
At the moment of writing this we are crossing China at 310 kph heading to Shanghai. When we left the station in Beijing, we timed the speed buildup - in 10 minutes we had reached 320kph through the suburbs. It hardly feels like we are moving.
Read an interesting article this morning in the English language Beijing daily analysing the reasons for the recent train crashes here. One of these trains hit another a few months ago, and the same happened on the Shanghai metro.
Bearing in mind that anything published here must accord with the official line, the article blamed the rapid adoption of western high speed technology, and its adaptation by Chinese industry without a complete understanding of the implications of those changes. Basically a company buys one and then builds a hundred without fully developing the necessary skills, and fully investing in training. The high
speed train program will be slowed to allow this to happen.
Thoroughly enjoyed Beijing. So different to Moscow. In Beijing they still seem to believe in their system. Of course there is poverty, and we have seen some dreadful beggars on the streets, with physical deformities that "beggar" belief, but there is a vivacity and energy whether they are collecting rubbish or running a shop. People are aspiring to a better life.
Whereas in Moscow apart from the super rich in their black 4wd and mercs, the average Muscovite seems dour and at odds with the system.
The Chinese believe (with some exceptions of course) it's their country and they seem proud of it. In Russia they are not sure whose country it is, but they don't think it's theirs anymore. There you are, that is my potted analysis!
Mind you haven't seen Shanghai yet.
We are just arriving in Nanking, and it's pouring down! First real rain we have seen on this trip.
Well we arrived in Shanghai. On time to the minute, after nearly 2000 kms!
Took the metro from the main line station to the station nearest to our hotel (walking distance), when we left the modern metro, dragging suitcase and with large backpack, we walked straight into a full-on Chinese market to be assailed by very aggressive hawkers "what you want - you want watch-
what you want" to which I replied "you out of my face" followed I have to admit by "expletive off!" It seemed to work.
The market was full of narrow alleyways, and even when we found the way out, the exit was blocked by bikes and stalls.
After a couple of wrong turns we made it to the hotel, to be told that the room we thought we had booked wasn't available, "we very busy". A little posturing did the trick (usually does), and we got a lovely large room with the biggest bed you have ever seen, and a view to die for over the city and river, right above the Bund.
Our hotel is a former Art Deco apartment building, next to the Suzhou Creek, which runs into the Huangpu River by the white "Monument to the Peoples Heroes" in the above picture. 70 years ago it was one of the biggest buildings in the city.
Nowadays the business district (Pudong), across the river from us with it's buildings into the sky, leaves no doubt about this country's ambitions!
Tomorrow is our first full day here, so we will walk the city if we can, but rain forecast.
Thursday, essentially a washout. However learnt a little about the town. We didn't walk the city, we bussed it. I usually avoid, to the frustration of my wife, the open top bus tours, but in this case, it worked well. It was pouring down and so what better way to see a city than on the top of an open bus (under cover)!
Last night instead of going out for dinner we ate again in the hotel, this time Italian - sort of..... The fettucini was in fact spaghetti cut into short bits and the parsley was coriander. But the torrential rain left no choice.
Although we had booked a cabin on the ferry to Japan, we had to pay when boarding the ferry, and in cash, in Chinese yuan - no cheques/credit cards etc. Managed to get most of the cash for the tickets to Japan.
Friday 14th, a bit more interesting, and challenging. With all this glitz in Shanghai, trying to get a good wifi connection seems almost impossible, coupled with the interference from the authorities (we assume). Our hotel is impossible, however there is a Costa Coffee on the Bund with free wifi, slow and some sites not available, but better than nothing, then your battery runs out! Ah well.
Obtained the balance of our Japan ferry fare, saw more of the city from the bus, did the obligatory shopping, had afternoon green tea at the Peace Hotel. A superb Art Deco hotel, fully restored, and magnificent. On the Bund, when it was built, and known as the Cathay Hotel, it was the finest in Asia.
Went to the old town for dinner. A small cafe up some stairs down small street, couple of beers and gingko nuts and noodles. The menu said "all meals vegetarian". Vegetarian beef, chicken, pork etc. Not the best meal we have had in China, but interesting, as was the old town.
The night lights are spectacular, but they all get switched out at around 10pm! As does the tv in our hotel room?
Tomorrow morning we board the ferry to Japan at the terminal just down the road. Saw the ship today, quite small really when you consider it has to cross the East China Sea.
Shanghai Saturday Oct 15. Waiting in the terminal to board the ferry to Japan.
Queued with all the other passengers to buy the tickets. All in cash!
Enjoyed China, but have to say that for all the glitz and glamour of Shanghai, I prefer Beijing. A little more dirty and "downtown".
This post will be filed in Japan, Kyoto probably. In less than a week our rail trip will be over, we'll be in Sydney. Pity really.
We pray for calm seas!
Our train to Shanghai being washed before departure
Read an interesting article this morning in the English language Beijing daily analysing the reasons for the recent train crashes here. One of these trains hit another a few months ago, and the same happened on the Shanghai metro.
Bearing in mind that anything published here must accord with the official line, the article blamed the rapid adoption of western high speed technology, and its adaptation by Chinese industry without a complete understanding of the implications of those changes. Basically a company buys one and then builds a hundred without fully developing the necessary skills, and fully investing in training. The high
speed train program will be slowed to allow this to happen.
We're still doing 310, with 2 hours to run. Not exactly packed!
Thoroughly enjoyed Beijing. So different to Moscow. In Beijing they still seem to believe in their system. Of course there is poverty, and we have seen some dreadful beggars on the streets, with physical deformities that "beggar" belief, but there is a vivacity and energy whether they are collecting rubbish or running a shop. People are aspiring to a better life.
Whereas in Moscow apart from the super rich in their black 4wd and mercs, the average Muscovite seems dour and at odds with the system.
The Chinese believe (with some exceptions of course) it's their country and they seem proud of it. In Russia they are not sure whose country it is, but they don't think it's theirs anymore. There you are, that is my potted analysis!
Mind you haven't seen Shanghai yet.
We are just arriving in Nanking, and it's pouring down! First real rain we have seen on this trip.
Well we arrived in Shanghai. On time to the minute, after nearly 2000 kms!
Took the metro from the main line station to the station nearest to our hotel (walking distance), when we left the modern metro, dragging suitcase and with large backpack, we walked straight into a full-on Chinese market to be assailed by very aggressive hawkers "what you want - you want watch-
what you want" to which I replied "you out of my face" followed I have to admit by "expletive off!" It seemed to work.
The market was full of narrow alleyways, and even when we found the way out, the exit was blocked by bikes and stalls.
After a couple of wrong turns we made it to the hotel, to be told that the room we thought we had booked wasn't available, "we very busy". A little posturing did the trick (usually does), and we got a lovely large room with the biggest bed you have ever seen, and a view to die for over the city and river, right above the Bund.
Lit up it is quite stunning.
Our hotel is a former Art Deco apartment building, next to the Suzhou Creek, which runs into the Huangpu River by the white "Monument to the Peoples Heroes" in the above picture. 70 years ago it was one of the biggest buildings in the city.
Nowadays the business district (Pudong), across the river from us with it's buildings into the sky, leaves no doubt about this country's ambitions!
Pudong in a damp smog
Thursday, essentially a washout. However learnt a little about the town. We didn't walk the city, we bussed it. I usually avoid, to the frustration of my wife, the open top bus tours, but in this case, it worked well. It was pouring down and so what better way to see a city than on the top of an open bus (under cover)!
Last night instead of going out for dinner we ate again in the hotel, this time Italian - sort of..... The fettucini was in fact spaghetti cut into short bits and the parsley was coriander. But the torrential rain left no choice.
Although we had booked a cabin on the ferry to Japan, we had to pay when boarding the ferry, and in cash, in Chinese yuan - no cheques/credit cards etc. Managed to get most of the cash for the tickets to Japan.
Even in Shanghai - with all its wealth and glitz - someone has to clean the street.
Friday 14th, a bit more interesting, and challenging. With all this glitz in Shanghai, trying to get a good wifi connection seems almost impossible, coupled with the interference from the authorities (we assume). Our hotel is impossible, however there is a Costa Coffee on the Bund with free wifi, slow and some sites not available, but better than nothing, then your battery runs out! Ah well.
Obtained the balance of our Japan ferry fare, saw more of the city from the bus, did the obligatory shopping, had afternoon green tea at the Peace Hotel. A superb Art Deco hotel, fully restored, and magnificent. On the Bund, when it was built, and known as the Cathay Hotel, it was the finest in Asia.
Peace Hotel
Went to the old town for dinner. A small cafe up some stairs down small street, couple of beers and gingko nuts and noodles. The menu said "all meals vegetarian". Vegetarian beef, chicken, pork etc. Not the best meal we have had in China, but interesting, as was the old town.
If I get offered one more watch, I just might take it!
The night lights are spectacular, but they all get switched out at around 10pm! As does the tv in our hotel room?
Your intrepid correspondent on the Bund
Tomorrow morning we board the ferry to Japan at the terminal just down the road. Saw the ship today, quite small really when you consider it has to cross the East China Sea.
Shanghai Saturday Oct 15. Waiting in the terminal to board the ferry to Japan.
Queued with all the other passengers to buy the tickets. All in cash!
Shanghai Ferry Terminal
Enjoyed China, but have to say that for all the glitz and glamour of Shanghai, I prefer Beijing. A little more dirty and "downtown".
This post will be filed in Japan, Kyoto probably. In less than a week our rail trip will be over, we'll be in Sydney. Pity really.
We pray for calm seas!
Tuesday, 11 October 2011
11 October. Beijing Impressions
How to describe Beijing! Enormous, polluted, crowded, all that you would expect.
Our hotel is a great find. It is in a hutong, an old traditional alley. The rooms are around a small courtyard with a gingko tree in the middle.
At night the courtyard is lit with red paper lanterns, and despite being in the middle of the city, and with a lively alley outside it is so quiet you can sit and listen to the wind in the tree. We have taken to having a cool drink in the evening at the table outside our door before heading out for dinner..
We are in the centre of the city, not far from the main sites, which is good for us because we like to walk a city. You get to see much more this way, off the tourist trail. But back to the hutongs, this is where the people live and work. Our alley is a great example. Our neighbours include a small police station, a tailor, seamstress, hairdresser, bike repair man, tv repair man, laundry, couple of hardware type shops selling bowls and assorted everything, several restaurants/cafes, a man who sits in the alley with plastic bowls of fish, and young rabbits in cages etc. A mahjong game at night. All these are holes in the wall shops, with much of the work done outside.
There is a continuous stream of bicycles and bicycle carts delivering stuff, food, water bottled gas, fuel, and collecting rubbish, rags, etc. There are pedicabs and rickshaw type vehicles.
What is fascinating is that more than half of these bikes are electric. I am very impressed with these electric bikes. They come in various combinations, usually with a rear seat to accommodate the "wife" or children. They are silent, nippy, and I want one! There are also electric scooters, look just like the
real thing but with electric motors. Prices start at around 3000 yuan which is about 350€.
Once you leave the alleys, the electric bikes are still filling the cycle lanes on the boulevards, and the buses are mostly electric trolley buses. Modern apartment buildings are topped with rows of solar water heaters. All of this I assume is an attempt to reduce the shocking air pollution which reminds me of the UK in the fifties.
We have had some interesting and delicious food. Our first night we ate in the hotels bar, quite pleasant. Next night, Saturday, went to restaurant just outside the alley, looked good, cooking at the table etc. Handy as well because the menu had pictures and brief English descriptions, and that was when we saw it - dog (roast or boiled)! We made our apologies and left. Had noodles down the road instead, 89 yuan for roast chicken, steamed greens, rice, taiwan noodles and 2 beers (11€) for
two people. Rather good.
Next night, Sunday, we went to Beijing's top restaurant for Peking Duck. The Dadong Restaurant. It was in the same district as our hotel, Dongcheng. Impossible to book on short notice, so we went and sat at the bar till a table came up. I think about an hour wait. Fascinating, because the duck ovens are behind a clear screen in the lobby, so you can sit and watch the process. There are 4 branches of Dadong, and they are regularly rated as the "best" in Beijing. The decor was very Asian contemporary, minimalist, with black marble tables. No faux traditional decor here! To begin we had gingko nut salad with lily bulbs, and sautéed bamboo shoots with light mustard. Then the duck arrived and was carved at the table, with condiments including crushed garlic and a rich sauce and sugar (to dip the skin in). Plus a steamer
full of light pancakes to wrap the shredded duck with the condiments. The best duck either of have ever had. The Dadong prepares the duck differently from many others, allowing the fat to drain. The ducks are also less fatty to begin with. Worth every penny.
Monday and tonight we had dinner at a Yunnan restaurant in "our" alley.
Superb light cooking, lots of chilli, also lots of garlic. Had sautéed chanterelles with slices of garlic, shredded chicken, shallots, chives, with cream and chicken stock, and rice wine sauce. Tiny restarant, can seat only 10 people. Chef greets you when you go in, brings up a couple of things they bought at the market etc.
Food is excellent value (as is everything, especially when you convert to Euros.)
The Peking Duck converted to about 90€ including a nice Cote de Rhone, tonights meal at the Yunnan restaurant in the alley was 144 yuan which is 16€.
We have walked for miles it seems, good thing really considering the excellent food! Metro is also great value at 2 yuan a trip (23 euro cents).
We have done the usual sights, the Forbidden City(absolute hell with the crowds, but you gotta do it).
Also visited the Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Tianenmin Square, discovered a beautiful Taoist Fire Temple, that doesn't appear on the tourist maps. Walked the city and the alleys and enjoyed it.
Today, Tuesday, walked some of the Great Wall. We took the train (in keeping with our travel agenda), although all the tourist brochures etc. only tell you about using buses or private hire. Took about an hour to get there from central Beijing, for the princely sum of 18 yuan return.
The train was easy and fast, and although it only goes to the "most touristed" section of the wall, we were able to walk an almost empty section.
Visited the Pearl Market, where Merryn bought some large pearls to work with.
Beijing is a fascinating place, at once very modern and also retaining the old. Surprising how much survived the cultural revolution. Vibrant self assured place. Also very commercial, on the metro the commercials showing on the screens in the train are synchronised with the commercials showing on the big screens on the stations. There are video screens in tunnels showing commercials as the train passes. Very clever.
Tomorrow its Shanghai on the Chinese version of the bullet train. Readers may recall how much I love the TGV, we shall see how it stacks up?!
Our hotel is a great find. It is in a hutong, an old traditional alley. The rooms are around a small courtyard with a gingko tree in the middle.
The courtyard with "our" table
Our room
At night the courtyard is lit with red paper lanterns, and despite being in the middle of the city, and with a lively alley outside it is so quiet you can sit and listen to the wind in the tree. We have taken to having a cool drink in the evening at the table outside our door before heading out for dinner..
We are in the centre of the city, not far from the main sites, which is good for us because we like to walk a city. You get to see much more this way, off the tourist trail. But back to the hutongs, this is where the people live and work. Our alley is a great example. Our neighbours include a small police station, a tailor, seamstress, hairdresser, bike repair man, tv repair man, laundry, couple of hardware type shops selling bowls and assorted everything, several restaurants/cafes, a man who sits in the alley with plastic bowls of fish, and young rabbits in cages etc. A mahjong game at night. All these are holes in the wall shops, with much of the work done outside.
Dongsi 4th Alley
There is a continuous stream of bicycles and bicycle carts delivering stuff, food, water bottled gas, fuel, and collecting rubbish, rags, etc. There are pedicabs and rickshaw type vehicles.
What is fascinating is that more than half of these bikes are electric. I am very impressed with these electric bikes. They come in various combinations, usually with a rear seat to accommodate the "wife" or children. They are silent, nippy, and I want one! There are also electric scooters, look just like the
real thing but with electric motors. Prices start at around 3000 yuan which is about 350€.
Once you leave the alleys, the electric bikes are still filling the cycle lanes on the boulevards, and the buses are mostly electric trolley buses. Modern apartment buildings are topped with rows of solar water heaters. All of this I assume is an attempt to reduce the shocking air pollution which reminds me of the UK in the fifties.
We have had some interesting and delicious food. Our first night we ate in the hotels bar, quite pleasant. Next night, Saturday, went to restaurant just outside the alley, looked good, cooking at the table etc. Handy as well because the menu had pictures and brief English descriptions, and that was when we saw it - dog (roast or boiled)! We made our apologies and left. Had noodles down the road instead, 89 yuan for roast chicken, steamed greens, rice, taiwan noodles and 2 beers (11€) for
two people. Rather good.
Next night, Sunday, we went to Beijing's top restaurant for Peking Duck. The Dadong Restaurant. It was in the same district as our hotel, Dongcheng. Impossible to book on short notice, so we went and sat at the bar till a table came up. I think about an hour wait. Fascinating, because the duck ovens are behind a clear screen in the lobby, so you can sit and watch the process. There are 4 branches of Dadong, and they are regularly rated as the "best" in Beijing. The decor was very Asian contemporary, minimalist, with black marble tables. No faux traditional decor here! To begin we had gingko nut salad with lily bulbs, and sautéed bamboo shoots with light mustard. Then the duck arrived and was carved at the table, with condiments including crushed garlic and a rich sauce and sugar (to dip the skin in). Plus a steamer
full of light pancakes to wrap the shredded duck with the condiments. The best duck either of have ever had. The Dadong prepares the duck differently from many others, allowing the fat to drain. The ducks are also less fatty to begin with. Worth every penny.
Monday and tonight we had dinner at a Yunnan restaurant in "our" alley.
Dongsi 4th Alley. Yunnan Restaurant on the right.
Superb light cooking, lots of chilli, also lots of garlic. Had sautéed chanterelles with slices of garlic, shredded chicken, shallots, chives, with cream and chicken stock, and rice wine sauce. Tiny restarant, can seat only 10 people. Chef greets you when you go in, brings up a couple of things they bought at the market etc.
Food is excellent value (as is everything, especially when you convert to Euros.)
The Peking Duck converted to about 90€ including a nice Cote de Rhone, tonights meal at the Yunnan restaurant in the alley was 144 yuan which is 16€.
We have walked for miles it seems, good thing really considering the excellent food! Metro is also great value at 2 yuan a trip (23 euro cents).
We have done the usual sights, the Forbidden City(absolute hell with the crowds, but you gotta do it).
One of the corner towers of the Forbidden City outer wall.
Also visited the Drum Tower, Bell Tower, Tianenmin Square, discovered a beautiful Taoist Fire Temple, that doesn't appear on the tourist maps. Walked the city and the alleys and enjoyed it.
Taoist Fire Temple
Today, Tuesday, walked some of the Great Wall. We took the train (in keeping with our travel agenda), although all the tourist brochures etc. only tell you about using buses or private hire. Took about an hour to get there from central Beijing, for the princely sum of 18 yuan return.
The train was easy and fast, and although it only goes to the "most touristed" section of the wall, we were able to walk an almost empty section.
Even an hour from the city, notice the smog (white cloud) around the wall.
Visited the Pearl Market, where Merryn bought some large pearls to work with.
Beijing is a fascinating place, at once very modern and also retaining the old. Surprising how much survived the cultural revolution. Vibrant self assured place. Also very commercial, on the metro the commercials showing on the screens in the train are synchronised with the commercials showing on the big screens on the stations. There are video screens in tunnels showing commercials as the train passes. Very clever.
Tomorrow its Shanghai on the Chinese version of the bullet train. Readers may recall how much I love the TGV, we shall see how it stacks up?!
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