Friday, 14 October 2011

15 October Shanghai

At the moment of writing this we are crossing China at 310 kph heading to Shanghai. When we left the station in Beijing, we timed the speed buildup - in 10 minutes we had reached 320kph through the suburbs. It hardly feels like we are moving.

Our train to Shanghai being washed before departure

Read an interesting article this morning in the English language Beijing daily analysing the reasons for the recent train crashes here. One of these trains hit another a few months ago, and the same happened on the Shanghai metro.

Bearing in mind that anything published here must accord with the official line, the article blamed the rapid adoption of western high speed technology, and its adaptation by Chinese industry without a complete understanding of the implications of those changes. Basically a company buys one and then builds a hundred without fully developing the necessary skills, and fully investing in training. The high
speed train program will be slowed to allow this to happen.

We're still doing 310, with 2 hours to run. Not exactly packed!

Thoroughly enjoyed Beijing. So different to Moscow. In Beijing they still seem to believe in their system. Of course there is poverty, and we have seen some dreadful beggars on the streets, with physical deformities that "beggar" belief, but there is a vivacity and energy whether they are collecting rubbish or running a shop. People are aspiring to a better life.

Whereas in Moscow apart from the super rich in their black 4wd and mercs, the average Muscovite seems dour and at odds with the system.

The Chinese believe (with some exceptions of course) it's their country and they seem proud of it. In Russia they are not sure whose country it is, but they don't think it's theirs anymore. There you are, that is my potted analysis!

Mind you haven't seen Shanghai yet.

We are just arriving in Nanking, and it's pouring down! First real rain we have seen on this trip.

Well we arrived in Shanghai. On time to the minute, after nearly 2000 kms!

Took the metro from the main line station to the station nearest to our hotel (walking distance), when we left the modern metro, dragging suitcase and with large backpack, we walked straight into a full-on Chinese market to be assailed by very aggressive hawkers "what you want - you want watch-
what you want" to which I replied "you out of my face" followed I have to admit by "expletive off!" It seemed to work.

The market was full of narrow alleyways, and even when we found the way out, the exit was blocked by bikes and stalls.

After a couple of wrong turns we made it to the hotel, to be told that the room we thought we had booked wasn't available, "we very busy". A little posturing did the trick (usually does), and we got a lovely large room with the biggest bed you have ever seen, and a view to die for over the city and river, right above the Bund.

Lit up it is quite stunning.

Our hotel is a former Art Deco apartment building, next to the Suzhou Creek, which runs into the Huangpu River by the white "Monument to the Peoples Heroes" in the above picture. 70 years ago it was one of the biggest buildings in the city.



Nowadays the business district (Pudong), across the river from us with it's buildings into the sky, leaves no doubt about this country's ambitions!

Pudong in a damp smog

Tomorrow is our first full day here, so we will walk the city if we can, but rain forecast.

Thursday, essentially a washout. However learnt a little about the town. We didn't walk the city, we bussed it. I usually avoid, to the frustration of my wife, the open top bus tours, but in this case, it worked well. It was pouring down and so what better way to see a city than on the top of an open bus (under cover)!

Last night instead of going out for dinner we ate again in the hotel, this time Italian - sort of..... The fettucini was in fact spaghetti cut into short bits and the parsley was coriander. But the torrential rain left no choice.

Although we had booked a cabin on the ferry to Japan, we had to pay when boarding the ferry, and in cash, in Chinese yuan - no cheques/credit cards etc. Managed to get most of the cash for the tickets to Japan.

Even in Shanghai - with all its wealth and glitz - someone has to clean the street.

Friday 14th, a bit more interesting, and challenging. With all this glitz in Shanghai, trying to get a good wifi connection seems almost impossible, coupled with the interference from the authorities (we assume). Our hotel is impossible, however there is a Costa Coffee on the Bund with free wifi, slow and some sites not available, but better than nothing, then your battery runs out! Ah well.

Obtained the balance of our Japan ferry fare, saw more of the city from the bus, did the obligatory shopping, had afternoon green tea at the Peace Hotel. A superb Art Deco hotel, fully restored, and magnificent. On the Bund, when it was built, and known as the Cathay Hotel, it was the finest in Asia.

Peace Hotel

Went to the old town for dinner. A small cafe up some stairs down small street, couple of beers and gingko nuts and noodles. The menu said "all meals vegetarian". Vegetarian beef, chicken, pork etc. Not the best meal we have had in China, but interesting, as was the old town.

If I get offered one more watch, I just might take it!

The night lights are spectacular, but they all get switched out at around 10pm! As does the tv in our hotel room?

Your intrepid correspondent on the Bund

Tomorrow morning we board the ferry to Japan at the terminal just down the road. Saw the ship today, quite small really when you consider it has to cross the East China Sea.

Shanghai Saturday Oct 15. Waiting in the terminal to board the ferry to Japan.

Queued with all the other passengers to buy the tickets. All in cash!

Shanghai Ferry Terminal

Enjoyed China, but have to say that for all the glitz and glamour of Shanghai, I prefer Beijing. A little more dirty and "downtown".

This post will be filed in Japan, Kyoto probably. In less than a week our rail trip will be over, we'll be in Sydney. Pity really.

We pray for calm seas!

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