Monday, 17 October 2011

17 October - Ferry ride to Japan

A life on the ocean wave! Eventually ......... First we had to navigate the Huang Po River, then the Yangtzi Delta. River traffic through Shanghai is relentless, day and night.

Traffic on the Huang Po River heading upstream through the smog. 

Moving out from the dock into the river traffic

Making our way down the Huang Po River 

Entering the Yangtzi River

Just dropped the last pilot boat. Big place Shanghai. Took us about 2 hours to get into the Yangtzi River, then another 2 hours to get to the mouth of the river.

Finally - a life on the ocean wave

Dinner tonight, a bowl of rice and a small dish of green beans plus dish of bean sprouts fried with tofu. Merryn had some chicken as well. Plus we had light beer, so pleasant and light. A few other choices, but they seemed the most appropriate for us.

Interesting that in all the places we have eaten (except the hotel in Shanghai) there was no concession to western eating, you used chopsticks or your fingers. Luckily we are both skilled to grain of rice standard. Found a triffic little shop in Shanghai, only sold chopsticks, including some very beautiful and expensive ebony or ivory topped with gold or silver. I chose very simple polished steel with a green inlay, to match my simple yet hedonistic lifestyle(!)

That little shop was one of the very few "local" shops around. We have never seen so many Gucci - Rolex - Tiffany etc. stores anywhere. They were in every shopping mall, and there was a mall on every corner it seemed in Shanghai. Lotsa money town, at least for some people. Mao must be spinning away at great speed somewhere!

Last night after our meal in the old town we walked down the Bund again. The lights just magnificent on the old buildings and on the skyscrapers across the river in Pudong, the financial centre. Most of Shanghai seemed to be strolling along with us. Very pleasant. Even the brides being photographed on the bridge at the mouth of the Suzhou Creek seemed more relaxed than we have seen.

Seems it's a tradition, and good luck, to have your wedding photographs taken on the old iron bridge at the end of the Bund (just outside our hotel). The bridge is a symbol of the city . There can be 3 or 4 at a time, and even in the rain.

At the moment the ferry is rolling about a bit, and we have a karaoke bar 2 floors down, but because this a smallish ship, the sound carries all the way up to the "special cabins". We have a "special" twin bed cabin with our own bathroom and door to the deck. There are only 8 such cabins on board - very posh! First class are 4 berth cabins with bunks and share the bathroom with the rest of the cabins. Don't ask about second class!

But back to the karaoke, a Japanese invention I recall. But why is it that only the tone deaf take part?

Been out on deck. It's great to see so many stars again. We also seem to be surrounded by ships all lit up and heading towards Shanghai.

Sunset as we enter the East China Sea

Now to bed to the strains of some tortured Sinatra classic!

This morning, Sunday, woke to blue sea and sky. Not a ship in sight. We had the last of our coffee for breakfast, and threw away the tin. Tin been with us for many years, Since London in fact, coffee from Monaco last month. Yes been on the road for nearly a month..... Tin had to go cos we need the space, and twas getting a bit bent. We keep the stockings though in case we need to make coffee on the road in Oz.

Why the stockings?  Travellers Tip Put coffee in stocking, put in hot water, wait, remove stocking and voila - fresh proper coffee.

Just had lunch (rice, tofu, steamed greens, fried stuffed tofu, light fishy soup and beer - very nice.

It's now 24 hours since leaving the dock in Shanghai, and we have just sighted the outer islands of Japan. Another 18 hours to reach Osaka, but from now on we will be insight of the coast as we enter the Inland Sea. Very smooth crossing - so far.

Outer islands of Japan

Dinner is over, another meal of rice, meat with oyster sauce and tofu in a rich sauce. Plus beer.

Food aside, I really can see the allure of the sea, maybe not cruising, but travelling by sea. There is nothing to do except read or watch the sea and sky and think or dream. In 2 days I have finished a collection of Ernest Hemingway which I started a while ago. Not having read him for some 40 odd years, I still found his style deceptively simple, but it flew along with the wind and the sea. Almost became poetical then, must be what the sea does for you?

When not immersed in Mr. H. watched flying fishes, and flocks of birds diving into shoals of fish boiling up the surface of the water, presumably being chased by something bigger below them - life can be a bit of a shit at times!

Tonight watched the lights of towns passing surprisingly closely as we make our way up the inland sea.
Realised that one of the "towns" is Hiroshima! Must go there one day. I had a distant uncle (Australian) who was one of the first to fly into the city after the bomb. Perhaps not surprisingly he had battles with cancer - which he eventually lost.

Was this Hiroshima?

Under a bridge close to Osaka

Tomorrow morning we dock in Osaka, then we make our way across the city to catch a train to Kyoto.

Maybe travelling by container ship or freighter is really the go. Equates well with train travel. Nice way to end the trip.

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